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sheep made fertiliser
In the 17th and 18th centuries, the upper Itchen was at the forefront of the development of water-meadows, an agricultural innovation that made use of the fact that, year-round, the water that emerges from chalk springs is an almost constant 10° Centigrade. Using a carefully constructed series of channels, water from the main river was allowed to trickle out across the fields on either side which, like central heating, in the early spring and late autumn kept the frost off the grass, allowing it to start or continue to grow several weeks earlier or later than on land not flooded.
The reason why the farmers in these parts went to all this bother was to graze sheep, not so much for their wool and meat, as their dung. Each night the sheep would be ‘folded’ on to the arable fields on the bottom slopes of the downs adjacent to the meadows and the dung from a day spent devouring rich meadow grasses would fertilise these fields, enabling the farmer to grow a good crop of valuable wheat or barley.
The water-meadows next to Burge’s Field fell out of use between the wars so we can’t go the whole hog, but we have started running sheep through the vineyard for a month or so after harvest and for a month or so just before bud burst. Their dung fertilises, improves the soil structure and is enjoyed by micro-organisms and plants alike - we think it has such a beneficial effect that, if we could only find some that don’t like the taste of vine leaves, we’d have sheep year-round!
harvest is done
As gulls fly south to the coast our fourth harvest is gathered. It’s brought a difficult year to an end but, after all the weather has thrown at the vineyard over the last 6 months, there is a surprising sense of optimism… A 30 strong team has taken 5 days to pick, pack and deliver to the winery somewhere just short of 50 tonnes.
The Pinot Meunier, which was the least affected in the vicious frosts at the end of April, produced the best yield. The Chardonnay was hit the worst in April so, even though renowned as a heavy cropper, it only produced about the same as the Pinot Noir, which also fared badly in the frosts.
We have understood since April that our yields would be down but the upside was good ripeness - especially in a couple of the north blocks of Pinot Meunier. We left them a good bit longer as an experiment and, while the sugars didn't improve much since there isn't much photosynthesis going on at this time of year, the acidity levels dropped nicely - should be very good for the PINK.
At noon on the last day Rose and Barnaby appear with two enormous legs and two fillets of venison. This is fallow deer from the woods around the Grange and the meat has been marinading overnight in wine and garlic and thyme. The flavour-laden smoke from the two oil-drum barbecues makes everyone pick and stack the last few rows that little bit faster.
At three in the afternoon it is finished and the team falls on rolls stuffed with rare meat and crunchy coleslaw, a glass of warming Tempranillo washes the rolls down and then Lucy produces mountains of brownies.